August 8, 20246 min Read

The Reference: MB&F Bulldog • HM10

By Niclas Berglund

Bezl meets Client Relationship Manager and watch expert Cédric Roussel from MB&F.

Cédric Roussel is an essential part of the MB&F team. He is responsible for overseeing and managing all aspects of the sales process, from establishing relationships with potential clients to ensuring that each customer receives the best possible service. Given MB&F’s exclusivity and the limited production of its temporal artworks, Cédric’s role is crucial for maintaining the brand’s high standards. He acts as a bridge between the company and its global customer base, making sure that their unique and highly valued products reach the right wrist.

MB&F (Maximilian Büsser and Friends) was founded in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser. The company has become known for creating some of the most innovative and unusual watches in the world, where contemporary design is combined with traditional craftsmanship. The name “Maximilian Büsser and Friends” suggests that each project is the result of a collaboration between Büsser and a group of skilled artisans, watchmakers, and designers. This philosophy underpins the brand’s identity.

Today, we will take a closer look at one of MB&F’s most iconic models, and the now discontinued, Horological Machine No. 10 (HM10), better known as Bulldog. The model’s story begins in a taxi in Tokyo. In the back seat of this car, MB&F’s founder, Maximilian Büsser, has a sudden idea. As a big dog lover, he suddenly sees the model’s design in front of him. In interviews, he has described that the finished model is almost identical to the vision he saw in front of him in that taxi in Japan’s capital in 2012.

I will dive right into it—why did you decide to close the HM10?

– We decided to discontinue the production of the Bulldog to keep our production numbers limited. While the Bulldog was a great success, we always strive to produce in small quantities. This ensures that our models remain unique and special for our fans.

The Horological Machine No. 10, also known as HM10 “Bulldog”, rests on the wrist.

It took eight years to manufacture the watch due to its complex movement and unique shape.

The MB&F HM10 in rose gold captures the essence of avant-garde watchmaking with its distinctive design and exquisite craftsmanship.

What can you tell Bezl’s readers about this model?

– Maximilian Büsser had a vision to create a watch that resembled a dog. He pondered, “Which dog is most iconic?” and immediately thought of the bulldog from the popular cartoon series Tom and Jerry. Together with his friend Éric Giroud, he then began sketching what the watch could look like. This was in 2012. It then took eight years before this vision became a reality. The watch is incredibly complex to manufacture because of its unique design. If you ask me, the Bulldog is more than a watch, it’s a work of art.

Can you tell me more about the model’s special case shape?

The model has a complex 3D shape, featuring two domed sapphire crystals – one on the top and one on the bottom. It has lugs that are flexible. These are the front legs of the bulldog. So, they move to really grip around your wrist, ensuring it sits very well on the wrist. 

You mentioned it briefly, but how is this model to wear on the wrist?

– It is very comfortable even if you have slim wrists because the front legs are flexible and can move. They grip properly, even around slimmer wrists. The model is very comfortable to wear and works excellently as a daily watch. Even though it may look big in pictures, the HM10 is actually very wearable. In fact, Max Büsser has small wrists and wants to ensure that his Machines can be worn and enjoyed daily.

The HM10 has a unique inscription engraved on the underside of the case: “Forget the dog, beware of the owner”.

A masterpiece in horological innovation, the MB&F HM10 in rose gold combines futuristic aesthetics with unparalleled luxury.

The blue domes represent the dog’s eyes: the left eye displays the minutes while the right eye shows the hours.

What were the biggest challenges you encountered during the manufacture of the Bulldog?

– Once the watch was designed and ready for production, the crown, which is the part that winds the movement, was placed on the back of the case where it now says “Bulldog”. Maximilian Büsser commented: “The crown cannot be placed there at the back; it reminds too much of other watch brands.” The development team agreed, but pointed out that relocating the crown to one of the hind legs, where it now resides, would require an additional six months of redesigning the movement. In total, it took eight years to complete the HM10 Bulldog. However, it is an interesting detail that the watch’s movement is wound at one of the hind legs.

What do you personally want to highlight about the model?

– As I have mentioned before, it is surprisingly comfortable to wear. Many of our customers are surprised by how well it fits on the wrist. Another feature of the model is the power reserve display. When the watch is fully wound, you can see, on the underside, the bulldog’s jaw completely open. When the power reserve starts to run low, the dog’s jaw closes. This detail gives the watch a strong personality.

The Bulldog’s power reserve is represented by a dog’s jaw on the underside of the watch.

The original drawings of the model suggested placing the crown where it now says “Bulldog”.

The distinctive shape of the case, where the watch’s lugs symbolize the dog’s four legs.

The specific model we are talking about today is the Dark Bulldog with a blue domes. How were the color choices and materials for this model inspired?

– In 2022, MB&F introduced three limited editions of eight pieces in stainless steel with black PVD coating called the Dark Bulldog, which sold out in a matter of days. We wanted to add a stealth version of the Bulldog, so we chose to make it entirely black. A completely black watch can be made either with ceramic or PVD coating. Making such a case in ceramic would have been impossible without a container; as a result, the watch case would have been enormous. Although PVD coating can be scratched, if that happens, it’s easier to refurbish steel than titanium. That’s why we chose to make the Dark Bulldog in steel with PVD coating.

Could the HM10 Bulldog potentially make a comeback in the future?

– Maybe the bulldog will rise again from its ashes and come back even stronger.

The HM10 in rose gold.

The Bulldog in titanium, with its characteristic blue strap for the model.

The MB&F HM10 Bulldog in stainless steel with black PVD coating, presented in a distinctive red hue.

If someone becomes interested in owning one of your models after reading this article, how do you recommend Bezl’s readers contact you?

– If you’re new to MB&F, I recommend starting by getting to know our brand. Visit our website, read articles, and watch videos on YouTube or Instagram. Then, you can go to our E-shop and sign up on the waiting list for one of our models. When someone registers, I get a notification and make contact. Even if we might not have the specific model you’re interested in available right now, we can always discuss your interest further. I often prefer to do this through a chat or a Zoom call, as it gives me a chance to get to know our customers better. We are a small brand in many ways, and I highly value personal contact with our customers.

Is there any model available directly from you today?

– Currently, you can’t just walk into a store and buy an MB&F model off the shelf. We could however help you source a pre-loved MB&F model!

How would you describe a typical MB&F customer?

– It’s challenging to define. Many of our customers already have a wide collection of watches and turn to us for something unique, especially when they consider our HM models. But honestly, there is no “typical” MB&F customer. Our customer base is global, and MB&F continues to grow year by year.

Thank you, Cédric Roussel, for your time and for sharing your expertise about the legendary HM10.

The HM10 Bulldog features a ‘flying balance wheel’, something that is strongly associated with MB&F.

In Conclusion

Horological Machine No.10, or HM10, represents a milestone in independent watchmaking. With its unique design and visionary technology, it has undoubtedly paved the way for new innovations and mindsets within the industry. It not only holds a prominent place in MB&F’s history book but also stands out physically on the wearer’s wrist. – I was personally surprised by how naturally and comfortably it fit me. As Cédric Roussel says in the interview; “This is more than a watch; it is a work of art.” A masterpiece of mechanics and design that attests to skill and passion. I hope every reader gets the chance to experience its unique character, and if you are already an owner of an HM10, I want to warmly congratulate you. Having an HM10 in your watch collection suggests not just an appreciation for fine watches but also a sign of bold taste ⏱

Follow the link to MB&F’s website for more information.

🎥 See the trailer with MB&Fs HM10 Bulldog.