September 1, 20246 min Read

The Reference: Patek Philippe • 3970J

By Niclas Berglund

Bezl meets Jasper Lijfering the founder of Amsterdam Vintage Watches.

With a passion for horology and an impressive collection, Jasper Lijfering has become a prominent figure in the watch world. Not only does he acquire rare and coveted timepieces, but he also possesses deep knowledge and understanding of the history and mechanics of watches. His views and reviews are followed by many on social media, particularly on his YouTube and Instagram channel.

We meet on a sunny day in Amsterdam to discuss a special gem from the prestigious watch house Patek Philippe – specifically, the ref: 3970, a model renowned for its perpetual calendar and chronograph complications.

Patek Philippe is widely regarded as one of the world’s most esteemed watchmakers. Renowned for its unwavering commitment to quality, timeless elegance, and intricate craftsmanship, the brand epitomizes the pinnacle of horological excellence. This model is a testament to Patek Philippe’s legacy, showcasing the brand’s dedication to creating masterpieces that combine aesthetic beauty with technical prowess.

What can you tell Bezl’s readers about this model?

– The Patek Philippe ref: 3970 is an iconic wristwatch featuring a perpetual calendar and a chronograph. These complications are central to Patek Philippe’s reputation for producing complicated wristwatches. The 3970 offers a lot of value compared to its predecessors (ref: 2499 and ref: 1518) and is seen as a must-own due to its aesthetics, mechanics, and historical significance.

Crafted for the connoisseur, the Patek Philippe 3970J epitomizes classic horology.

On Jasper Lijfering’s wrist, we see the iconic Patek Philippe 3970 model. The watch features a case that measures 36 mm.

How is it to wear the 3970, given your experience with different variants?

– Owning several variants (yellow gold, white gold, platinum), I prefer the classic yellow gold version for its vibrant and elegant look. Despite trying different versions, the yellow gold with an opaline dial remains my favorite due to its classic appearance and 36mm size, which suits my preference for more traditional, dressy watches.

Will you continue collecting or is your 3970 collection complete?

As both a collector and dealer, I sometimes need to sell pieces to acquire new ones. I plan to keep my yellow gold and white gold variants but will sell the pink gold and platinum versions due to personal preference and the aesthetic appeal of the yellow and white gold models.

What advice would you give to readers interested in this piece?

– Look for cases in good condition, clean dials, and visible hallmarks. Study the different series to find your preference, noting the differences in font and marker styles. While pre-owned pieces can offer great value and bang for the buck, prioritize condition and service history over the completeness of the set (box and papers).

The perfect blend of luxury and craftsmanship: Patek Philippe 3970J. Jasper is on his way to Amsterdam Vintage Watches showroom in central Amsterdam.

At the heart of the Patek Philippe 3970 lies a masterpiece of precision—the CH 27-70, a movement based on the renowned Lemania 2310, meticulously refined by Patek Philippe.

What can you tell us about the movement?

– The 3970 uses a Lemania-based chronograph movement, which has been re-finished and altered by Patek Philippe. The movement is well-finished, visually appealing, and housed in a waterproof case with round pushers, making it durable and user-friendly. However, while it can withstand rain and hand washing, it’s not recommended for swimming. It’s an iconic movement from Patek Philippe. As a watch fan, it’s a true pleasure to admire and wear.

How important has this reference been in the watch community?

– The 3970 has been underappreciated but is gaining recognition. Increased understanding and appreciation among collectors are driving its value up. Videos and in-depth analyses have helped highlight its significance, showing that it offers great value compared to more expensive models like the 5004.

What happened from the 3970 to the 5970?

– The 5970 features a more elaborate dial design and larger case, which may appeal to those preferring bigger watches. However, the 3970’s simplicity and vintage look, with its round pushers and step lugs, provide a more elegant appearance. Both models have their merits, but my personal preference leans towards the vintage aesthetics of the 3970.

In the world of haute horlogerie, the Patek Philippe 3970 stands as a pinnacle of refinement.

Every detail matters in the Patek Philippe 3970, a true collector’s treasure. Here you can see three different versions: White Gold, Platinum, and Yellow Gold.

What do you think of Patek’s approach to the sport watch hype, like the Nautilus?

– Despite expanding into sports and steel watches, Patek Philippe remains committed to precious metal wristwatches, which constitute the majority of their revenue. Unlike brands like Rolex and Audemars Piguet, Patek preserves its luxury and complicated watch legacy. Models like the 3970 exemplify Patek’s dedication to classic and elegant timepieces over hyped sports models.

How do you see the development in Patek Philippe’s production runs?

– Modern Patek Philippe models have shorter production runs compared to vintage models like the 1518 and 2499, which were produced for decades. The current trend is towards more diverse models with shorter runs, reflecting faster-changing tastes and the modern economy. Timeless designs like the 3970, however, continue to stand out for their balance and proportion.

What are you wearing today?

– I’m wearing the Patek Philippe ref: 3970J, as seen in the pictures accompanying the interview.

Thank you, Jasper, for your time and for sharing your expertise on this model.

Understated luxury at its finest: The Patek Philippe 3970J. Jasper tastefully pairs this jewel with his made-to-measure suit.

On the left, the white gold version; in the middle, the platinum version; and on the right, the pink gold version. The latter is one of Jasper’s absolute favorites in his extensive watch collection.

Successor to the iconic Patek Philippe 2499, the 3970 continuing the tradition of Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar chronographs.

Ref.3970 features: Day, Date, Month, Leap Year Indicator, 24-Hour Indicator.

Lastly

The perpetual calendar chronograph in this watch marks a milestone in haute horlogerie. From its advanced mechanism to its aesthetic expression, this movement stands as a symbol of both innovation and tradition within the watch industry. Although the 3970 has been succeeded by the 5970, it still carries the heritage and sophisticated sensation that Patek Philippe is renowned for.

When worn, its presence on the wrist is unmistakable. Having experienced the 5970 with its slightly larger case, I found the 3970’s 36mm case size to offer a more vintage vibe, complemented by its characteristic pump-pusher chronograph buttons. Its elegance and historical significance are undeniable, making it a beautiful embodiment of Patek Philippe’s legacy.

The movement itself is a testament to craftsmanship. The 3970 houses a heavily modified Lemania-based movement, which has been expertly re-finished by Patek Philippe. Every aspect, from the polished finish to the meticulously crafted details on the dial, highlights a passion for detail. The sophisticated design, enhanced by the unique perpetual calendar and chronograph mechanism, is a marvel to behold.

Despite being available in various materials, the classic yellow gold version is my favorite. Just like Jasper Lijfering, I truly appreciate the harmonious blend of the opaline dial against the rich gold case. The yellow gold version resonates well with the vintage feel of the watch, making it an ideal choice for those who appreciate timeless elegance.

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🎥 See the trailer with Jasper and his 3970J