February 1, 20246 min Read

The Reference: Patek Philippe • 5004

By Niclas Berglund

Bezl meets watch enthusiast and Instagram profile only_therarest, also known as Tony Kavak.

With his tireless passion for Patek Philippe and an impressive collection, Tony Kavak, or only_therarest, has become a prominent figure in the world of watches. He is not only known for purchasing rare and sought-after watches but also for his in-depth knowledge and understanding of the history and mechanics of the watches. His insights and reviews have gained a large following on social media, particularly on his Instagram account.

Our meeting takes place in Stockholm, near Luxury Watches, the store once daily managed by Tony Kavak. Nowadays, it is his son George Kavak who handles the day-to-day operations, a task Tony handed over several years ago to fully devote himself to his passion: hunting for rare watches for his impressive collection. In this article, we will discuss one of his personal favorites, a particular treasure from Patek Philippe. This model is not just a representation of fine watchmaking but also a symbol of Tony Kavak’s journey in the world of watches – from his early days as an eager collector to his current status as a respected authority in the industry.

Tony, what can you tell us about the Patek Philippe model and reference 5004?

– In 1996, Patek Philippe decided to combine a split-second function with a perpetual calendar and a chronograph. At that time, this was groundbreaking, but they encountered problems with the first series, where the split-second function did not interact well with the movement’s power reserve. When they integrated the split-second function, based on the same movement used in model 3970, issues arose. Therefore, the first series had to be sent back to the factory for redesigning. Something quite controversial about the 5004: Patek created a disproportionately large chronograph button, placed in the crown, to activate the split-second function.

Initially, I had difficulty with this detail, but over time my view has changed. Today, I probably own one of the world’s largest collections of Patek Philippe’s model 5004.

The rose gold exhibits a warm and beautiful tone that becomes particularly prominent against the blue alligator strap, a combination that Tony Kavak is especially drawn to during the summer.

Tony Kavak sits outside Luxury Watches on Grev Turegatan in central Stockholm, with a 5004 in rose gold on his wrist.

How extensive is your 5004 collection?

– I have several unique models that I developed together with Patek Philippe. In total, I currently have 24 pieces of the reference in my collection. My ambition is to expand it, and I am constantly on the lookout for unique variants of the model.

How important is this reference for Patek Philippe?

– It is very important. The model was groundbreaking with its then unique complication, the split-second. The 5004 was in production between 1996-2012 before it was replaced by reference 5204. The successor has a new design, but it is clear where it originates from. Much of the DNA of the 5004 is in its successor. Just the fact that there now is a 5204 shows how important the 5004 is. They have chosen to further develop the model instead of ending its production. It will be exciting to see where Patek chooses to take the 5204, which I suspect is nearing its end. I hope they replace it with a new reference in the same series. If that happens, the DNA of the 5004 will be there too.

Is there anything in the 5204 that is more appealing than in the 5004?

– No, that is my personal opinion. If I have to mention something, it’s that the new reference has a day and night indication, but honestly, who looks at that? I am drawn to the more traditional side and am more conservative than most when it comes to watches, so I have a weakness for the older references at Patek Philippe. But the 5204 appeals to a broader audience as it has a larger case and also a more modern movement, Patek’s own Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q. This generally appeals to the new generation of collectors.

Tony Kavak adjusts the time on his 5004R, one of many in his extensive collection of this reference.

Patek Philippe’s reference 5004 in yellow gold, adorned with Arabic numerals and a custom-designed bracelet in the same precious metal by Tony Kavak.

Patek Philippe’s reference 5004 was in production for 16 years, from 1996 to 2012, making it one of Patek Philippe’s longer-running complicated models.

I know you often wear the 5004 as a daily watch, what is it like to wear?

– A common misconception is that the 5004 is small with its 36.5 mm case size, but that’s not including the crown. It’s large and makes the watch feel bigger and nicely balanced on the wrist. This detail gives the entire watch a touch of asymmetry, which is a beautiful design language that appeals to me. I keep coming back to this model time and again. It’s definitely one of my favorites.

You have experience with all the metals this reference has been issued in, which would you say is your favorite?

– That’s a tough question, it depends on the occasion. I love platinum for its weight and understated appearance. It’s not always appropriate to wear metals like yellow gold or rose gold. Then platinum is perfect. But even yellow gold and rose gold are fantastic. For example, I love wearing my rose gold watch in the summer with a blue band. It’s a stunning combination. I can’t say that I have a favorite metal. But if we talk about dials, salmon dials in combination with white gold are a clear favorite, as well as black dials in combination with rose gold.

The 5004 features a manual chronograph movement with split-second (rattrapante) and perpetual calendar.

The iconic model from Patek Philippe is equipped with the Caliber CHR 27-70 Q movement, which is based on the Lemania 2310.

The watch has a case size of about 36 mm (not counting the crown) and a profile height of 15 mm.

In this article, we can see your 5004 in yellow gold with a custom-designed bracelet, can you tell us about it?

– Patek Philippe is very restrictive when it comes to manufacturing bracelets in different metals. So, for a long time, I have been in contact with a skilled jeweler who helped me create a bracelet with a tear-drop design. The bracelet is fantastic, both to wear and to look at. It is very flexible and sits comfortably on the wrist. It was a difficult process to find the right design, as a bracelet in precious metal can feel heavy. There are few examples of the 5004 with a factory-made bracelet. I was also very keen on having free rein to create my own bracelet, exactly as I wanted it.

Can one purchase this bracelet from you through your company Luxury Watches?

– No, unfortunately, this bracelet is unique and only made for me.

Another of your 5004s featured in the article is in rose gold with a blue alligator strap.

– I like to often change straps on my watches. It gives them new life and a new character. In the summer, I like to wear it with green or blue alligator straps. But now that winter has a firm grip on Stockholm, I wear it with a more traditional brown strap. However, that might change soon.

Tony Kavak in central Stockholm, where he showcases his 5004 in rose gold. This model is one of the collector’s personal favorites.

The rose gold gives the watch a warm and inviting tone, creating an admirable contrast against the blue alligator strap.

If you are considering buying your first 5004, what advice would you give to Bezl’s readers?

– I recommend choosing either platinum or rose gold. Platinum for its weight and the fact that its white color is easy to match on all occasions, while rose gold has a beautiful warm tone that gives a more classic expression. Ultimately, it depends on the buyer’s personal preferences.

Why do you think one should have a 5004 in their collection?

– It carries the same DNA as the 2499 and is an evolution of the 3970. The 5004 bears much of Patek Philippe’s history in its design language, and that is something that strongly appeals to me.

Finally, Tony, which watch are you wearing today?

– I am wearing a Patek Philippe 1518 in yellow gold with a bracelet in the same precious metal. A fantastic watch as well.


Thank you, Tony Kavak, for your time and for sharing your expertise on this model.


Tony Kavak activates and resets the split-second function on his 5004 in rose gold.


In the impressive history of Patek Philippe, the model 5004 stands out as a particularly shining example. It combines a complex movement with exceptional design language, which is a hallmark of Patek Philippe. This is a watch that not only displays time but also tells a story of craftsmanship and tradition.

This model, with its deep roots in Patek Philippe’s Perpetual Calendar collection, is not just a display of technical expertise but also of aesthetic finesse. Its ability to combine complexity with usability and beauty is unparalleled. It is a watch that goes unnoticed by many, but to those who recognize its character and quality, it speaks volumes.

Choosing to wear a Patek Philippe 5004 is a decision that reflects a deep appreciation of watchmaking art at its highest level. It is an experience that goes beyond just keeping time – it is to cherish a rich tradition of innovation and beauty that has defined Patek Philippe for generations ⏱

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Follow Tony Kavak on Instagram by clicking here. There you can see his fantastic collection.

🎥 See the trailer with Tony Kavak and his Patek Philippe 5004R.