October 22, 20255 min Read

In Focus – Tudor Black Bay 58 “Navy Blue”

By Niclas Berglund

The Black Bay 58 stands out to me because of its proportions. At 39mm, it captures the essence of Tudor’s vintage divers without ever feeling dated. It’s a size that just works — equally at home on the beach as it is at a dinner table.

Overview

The Black Bay 58 has become one of Tudor’s defining modern references. Introduced in 2018, it was a direct nod to the Submariner reference 7924 from 1958, known as the “Big Crown.” At 39mm, the BB58 captured the proportions of Tudor’s earliest divers and packaged them in a watch that feels unmistakably modern.

The perfect balance between vintage charm and modern precision — the Black Bay 58 Blue.

Inspired by the sea, built for everyday wear.

What stands out

Proportions are everything. At 39mm, the BB58 hits a sweet spot that just works. It channels vintage DNA without ever feeling dated—a balance many dive watches struggle to achieve. On the wrist, it disappears in the best way possible: you don’t have to think about it, it just works.

Just as important is the legibility. The dial layout, combined with Tudor’s snowflake hands, makes the BB58 one of the clearest and easiest-to-read divers on the market today. That clarity has been central to Tudor’s design philosophy since the 1960s, when the French Navy commissioned professional dive watches with larger, squared-off hands for maximum underwater visibility. The BB58 carries that legacy forward.

Secure comfort – the Tudor clasp combines clean design with everyday practicality.

Navy tones, brushed steel, and timeless proportions. Tudor got this one right.

On the wrist

Slim, balanced, and unobtrusive, the BB58 adapts effortlessly to different settings. I’ve worn mine on the bracelet, on fabric, even with a blazer. Whether it’s the beach, the dinner table, or everyday life, it never feels out of place.

Compared to the 41mm Black Bay models, the slimmer profile makes it more wearable and closer to the originals. Some collectors underestimate it for its subtlety, but once it’s on the wrist, its character becomes obvious.

Inside the case

Powering the watch is Tudor’s in-house caliber MT5402. COSC-certified, with 70 hours of power reserve, it’s robust and built to last. There’s no see-through caseback or unnecessary flair — just a reliable engine doing exactly what it should.

Fewer watches do “daily perfection” better than the BB58 Blue.

39 mm of sporty elegance on steel or strap

Collector’s note

What really sets this version apart is the dial. The blue of the BB58 is, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful shades of blue on the market. If you’re drawn to blue watches, this is a dial worth paying attention to. It shifts in tone depending on the light, but without resorting to a gradient effect. It’s matte, simple and beautiful.

Verdict

The Tudor Black Bay 58 has become one of my most trusted companions. I hesitated at first, wondering if a simple diver would keep my interest. Three years later, my navy blue BB58 is by far my most worn watch. I don’t baby it — it’s been with me at the beach, with my kids, and it carries the scratches and dings of daily life. Those marks aren’t flaws, they’re memories.

And the dial still gets me. Even after all these years, I can look at it and think the shade of blue is just perfect. Tudor absolutely nailed it here. It shifts subtly with the light, yet never feels overdone. That’s what makes the BB58 special. It’s a watch that has become part of my life, and a permanent piece of my collection.

Lightweight, slim, and endlessly wearable.

The Magnifier

  • Reference: M79030B (Navy Blue)

  • Case: 39mm stainless steel, 11.9mm thick

  • Bezel: Unidirectional, aluminum insert

  • Movement: MT5402, in-house, COSC-certified

  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

  • Water Resistance: 200 m

  • Dial: Matte navy blue

  • Bracelet/Straps: Steel bracelet, fabric, or rubber.

  • Introduced: 2018

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